Free used car buyer guide / Mk3 pre-facelift / 2013-2016
Ford Escape common problems and best years
By BYBA Research - how we score cars
Updated 2026-06-12
BYBA Buy Score
7.4/10
1 walk-away risk, 7 minor faults documented for this generation, weighted by severity and repair cost. Biggest factor: 1.6l ecoboost coolant loss, overheat, and fire-risk history. Score methodology.
The 2013-2016 Escape is usable cheap transport only when the engine choice and recall history are right; the body and cabin age well, but Ford packed several expensive powertrain traps into the early Mk3. The biggest risks are the 2013-2014 1.6L EcoBoost overheating and fire campaigns, 2.0L EcoBoost coolant-in-cylinder failures on some 2015-2016 builds, 6F35 torque-converter or shift problems, door latch failures, and shift-cable bushing detachment. The least risky buy is a 2015-2016 2.5L front-drive Escape with documented transmission fluid service and no rust belt door-latch history. If you already own one, treat coolant loss, hot coolant smell, or any Park/gear-selector mismatch as urgent because those are the faults that turn a small Escape into an uneconomic repair.
Faults covered
8
Highest risk
1.6L EcoBoost coolant
Best years
2015-2016
Best buys
- 2015-2016 2.5L FWD SE/S with clean transmission shifts and complete recall completion record.
- Late 2016 2.0L AWD only if coolant level is stable and no misfire history appears in service records.
Inspect hard
- Any 1.6L EcoBoost: verify Ford overheating, coolant hose, and fuel-line safety work by VIN before viewing.
- AWD cars: road-test tight turns and check rear differential/PTU seepage after the drive.
- Cars from wet or salted states: open every door repeatedly and confirm latch recall history.
Avoid
- 2013 1.6L EcoBoost with missing campaign records, coolant smell, or unexplained top-ups.
- Any Escape that rolls after Park is selected or shows delayed Drive/Reverse engagement.
- 2.0L cars using coolant without an external leak.
Next checks
Before you contact the seller
Check the car's history first. Then bring the right tools if it still looks worth viewing.
Primary next step
Check history, title, and recall status
The faults above matter more if the car also has accident history, finance flags, missing service records, or open safety recalls.
Viewing kit
Bring the right tools
Four cheap tools catch most of the faults on this page at a Ford Escape viewing.
Printable workflow
Take the inspection pack
The PDF is the ordered checklist for the viewing: documents, walk-around, test drive, and scan.
Open PDF optionSome links here are partner links. If you buy through one, BYBA earns a commission. The price you pay does not change. How we make money.
Engines and trims
Which Ford Escape should you buy?
On most used cars, the engine and trim choice changes the risk more than the mileage does. Narrow this down before you start viewing cars.
2.5L Duratec I4, front-wheel drive
2013-2016
BEST
This is the slowest Escape but the simplest one. It avoids the 1.6L fire/coolant campaign cluster and has less turbo heat under the cowl. The buyer tradeoff is that most 2.5L cars are lower trims, so condition and transmission feel matter more than options.
1.6L EcoBoost GTDI
2013-2016
HIGH-RISK VALUE BUY
The 1.6L gives the Escape the right power but carries the ugliest early history: cylinder-head cup plug loss, coolant overheating logic, coolant hose routing, and fuel-line leak campaigns. A fully repaired late car can work, but a missing VIN campaign is enough reason to leave it.
2.0L EcoBoost GTDI
2013-2016
FAST BUT NEEDS COOLANT PROOF
The 2.0L is the nicest engine to drive and is common with AWD. It also overlaps Ford bulletin coverage for coolant intrusion on 2015-2018 Edge and 2017-2019 Escape/Fusion variants, with owner reports spilling into nearby years. Buy the engine, not the badge: pressure-test it cold and inspect plugs for steam-cleaning.
Year notes
Year-by-year buyer advice
Use this to narrow the search before you spend time travelling to view a car.
2013
New Mk3 Escape with 2.5L, 1.6L EcoBoost, and 2.0L EcoBoost. This is the problem-heavy launch year with multiple 1.6L engine/fuel/cooling campaigns, early door-latch actions, brake-pedal trim recall, and later shifter-bushing coverage.
Buyer: Treat a 2013 as a paperwork car first. The price only makes sense if every 1.6L campaign is closed, the coolant system passes a cold pressure test, and the 6F35 shifts cleanly from cold.
Owner: Keep a VIN recall printout in the glovebox. Any new coolant odor or gear-selector oddity is worth handling before the car strands you.
2014
Ford cleaned up some launch defects but 1.6L cooling and door-latch exposure remains. Fuel-pump, instrument-cluster, seatbelt/airbag, and panoramic roof recalls affect smaller build windows.
Buyer: A 2014 2.5L is usually preferable to a cheaper 1.6L Titanium with vague service history. Check door latches by feel, not just dashboard warnings.
Owner: If your car came from a corrosion state, lubricate and inspect latches before winter. Recheck Ford recall status because superseding latch and bushing actions have appeared years later.
2015
Fewer engine-related recalls than 2013-2014, but the 2015 Escape still carries door-latch, ignition, shifter-bushing, rear-camera, and block-heater recall exposure depending on build and equipment.
Buyer: This is the first year that starts to look sensible. Favor the 2.5L or a well-maintained 2.0L and verify the vehicle cannot move when Park is selected.
Owner: If you have a 2.0L with a block heater, keep an eye on the 2026 heater recall and do not use a cracked or suspect cord assembly.
2016
Final pre-facelift year. Recall count drops, but the shifter-cable bushing, rear-camera, and block-heater actions still matter. Age-related 6F35 shift wear becomes the bigger buying issue.
Buyer: A clean 2016 2.5L FWD is the low-drama choice. On a 2.0L AWD, insist on a long road test that includes highway kickdown and tight parking-lot turns.
Owner: Service the transmission fluid on condition, not marketing language. The 6F35 is more forgiving when fluid changes start before harsh shifts appear.
Common problems
Faults to check before buying
What fails, what it looks like, what it costs, and the quick checks you can do at the viewing - ranked by how badly each one can hurt you.
Fault 1
1.6L EcoBoost coolant loss, overheat, and fire-risk history
Affects
Mainly 2013-2014 1.6L EcoBoost, with related 2014-2015 1.6L GTDI cooling coverage.
Symptoms
Low coolant, hot smell after shutdown, warning messages, weak cabin heat, white residue near hoses or degas bottle, or a seller claiming the car only needs topping up.
Typical repair cost
$0 for open campaign work; $350-1,200 for cooling repairs; $3,500-7,500 if overheat damage has reached the engine.
Codes / scan clues
P0217, P1285, P1299, misfire codes after severe overheating.
Root cause: Early 1.6L hardware and control strategy could lose coolant or fail to manage local overheating. Ford safety actions addressed cup plug loss, coolant-hose/degas-bottle changes, fuel-line routing, and overheating logic.
Quick check
- Run the VIN through Ford and NHTSA before arranging the viewing.
- Inspect the degas bottle, cap, heater hoses, and turbo-side plumbing for dried coolant.
- Start cold and confirm smooth idle, stable coolant level, and cabin heat within a few minutes.
- Reject a car with recent coolant top-up and no invoice explaining why.
Buyer note
The 1.6L can be fine after complete Ford campaign work, but undocumented cars are poor bets. A cheap Titanium trim is not cheap if the engine has already been overheated.
Owner note
Track coolant level and date on the bottle for a month. If the level moves, pressure-test it before the next long drive.
Fault 2
2.0L EcoBoost coolant intrusion into cylinders
Affects
Most documented on 2015-2018 Edge and 2017-2019 Escape/Fusion 2.0L; inspect 2015-2016 Escape 2.0L carefully because used-engine histories blur the boundary.
Symptoms
Slow coolant loss, rough cold start, white exhaust vapor after warm-up, cylinder-specific misfire, or one spark plug that looks unusually clean.
Typical repair cost
$4,500-8,500 for engine replacement or long-block work.
Codes / scan clues
P0300, P0301-P0304, P0316, P0217, P1285, P1299.
Root cause: Coolant can pass from the block deck area into a cylinder. Ford's service bulletin procedure uses pressure testing and borescope inspection; confirmed cases generally require a short block or long block rather than a simple gasket.
Quick check
- Check coolant cold before the seller starts the vehicle.
- Look for misfire history and pending codes, not just current warning lights.
- Remove or inspect plug photos if paying for a pre-purchase inspection.
- Walk away from any 2.0L that consumes coolant without an external leak.
Buyer note
A fast AWD Escape with coolant loss is a bad purchase. The repair lands in engine-replacement territory and usually cannot be priced like a normal maintenance item.
Owner note
Do not keep driving through cylinder misfires. Early confirmation gives you a better chance of goodwill or warranty discussion.
Fault 3
6F35 automatic shudder, delayed shifts, and torque-converter faults
Affects
2013-2016 Escape with six-speed automatic, especially high-mileage cars with no fluid service.
Symptoms
Harsh 2-3 shift, delayed Drive or Reverse, flare during light throttle, shudder on lockup, or transmission warning after a cold start.
Typical repair cost
$250-450 for fluid service; $1,800-3,500 for torque converter or valve-body work; $4,000-5,500 for rebuild.
Codes / scan clues
P0741, P1744, P0732, P0733.
Root cause: Fluid wear, converter clutch slip, valve-body wear, and hydraulic drain-back can combine into poor engagement. Ford bulletin coverage exists for P0741/P1744 on 1.6L Escapes and cold 2-3 hesitation across related Ford platforms.
Quick check
- Drive from cold for at least 20 minutes with light and moderate throttle.
- Feel for delayed Reverse after parking for five minutes.
- Scan the PCM/TCM for stored transmission codes.
- Check service records for Mercon LV fluid changes.
Buyer note
A smooth test drive matters more than trim level. Do not buy one that bangs into gear and hope adaptive learning will cure it.
Owner note
Fresh fluid can help a merely tired unit. Once converter codes appear, plan the repair before debris spreads through the valve body.
Fault 4
Shift-cable bushing detaches and Park is not actually Park
Affects
2013-2016 Escape included in later Ford shifter-bushing actions; separate 2015 2.0L action also exists.
Symptoms
Gear indicator disagrees with lever position, vehicle can move after Park is selected, loose shifter feel, or no-start because the transmission range does not match the lever.
Typical repair cost
$0 under open safety action; $150-400 outside campaign.
Codes / scan clues
Range sensor mismatch codes may appear; many cases are mechanical with no code.
Root cause: The bushing that connects the shifter cable to the transmission can degrade or detach. Once detached, the cabin lever no longer guarantees transmission position.
Quick check
- With the brake held, move through every gear and watch the cluster.
- On flat ground, select Park, release the brake briefly, and confirm the car holds.
- Look for Ford recall completion for campaigns 18V471, 22V254, or 22V413 as applicable.
Buyer note
This is a small part with high consequence. Missing completion is not fatal, but an active symptom during viewing is a hard no.
Owner note
Use the parking brake until the repair is confirmed. Do not ignore a loose-feeling selector.
Fault 5
Door latch pawl failure
Affects
2013-2015 Escape, with expanded latch actions affecting cars in warm and high-corrosion regions.
Symptoms
Door will not latch, door-ajar warning, double-clunk when closing, or a door that can pop open over bumps.
Typical repair cost
$0 under active recall; $250-650 per latch outside coverage.
Codes / scan clues
Body control module door-ajar codes may store; many failures are mechanical.
Root cause: A component in the latch can break or bind. Ford issued several latch campaigns across Focus, Escape, Fusion, C-Max, Mustang, and Transit Connect vehicles.
Quick check
- Open and close all doors five times, including gentle closes.
- Watch for door-ajar messages while driving slowly over uneven pavement.
- Inspect latch screws and paint marks for previous replacement.
Buyer note
A repaired latch car is fine. A seller who shrugs off a door warning is giving you a safety problem, not a convenience fault.
Owner note
If one latch has failed, check all doors by VIN and mileage. Multiple Ford latch actions overlap by build date and region.
Fault 6
Fuel line, fuel pump, and under-hood leak fire risks
Affects
Mostly 2013 1.6L Escape, with smaller 2014 fuel-pump and fuel-delivery build windows.
Symptoms
Fuel smell, hard start, stumble under load, visible wetness near fuel lines, or history of unresolved recall notices.
Typical repair cost
$0 under recall; $250-900 for pump, line, or diagnostic repairs outside coverage.
Codes / scan clues
P0087, P008A, P0171, misfire codes if fuel pressure falls.
Root cause: Ford recalls addressed fuel lines that could chafe or leak and a small batch of fuel-pump/fuel-delivery defects. On old cars, campaign work may be done but rubber and connectors still deserve inspection.
Quick check
- Smell around the engine bay after a fully warm test drive.
- Check the VIN for 12V336, 13V584, 14V525, and 15V005 applicability.
- Do not inspect suspected fuel leaks with the engine running in an enclosed space.
Buyer note
Fuel odor ends the viewing. It is not a bargaining chip on a turbo Escape with known fire-related history.
Owner note
Keep fuel-system receipts separate from ordinary service records. They matter for resale because buyers know this generation's history.
Fault 7
A/C inlet line broken by coolant-line pressure
Affects
2013-2016 Escape with 1.6L EcoBoost.
Symptoms
Weak air conditioning, oily residue near the compressor line, hissing after shutdown, or repeated refrigerant top-ups.
Typical repair cost
$450-1,100 depending on line, refrigerant, and compressor contamination.
Codes / scan clues
HVAC pressure sensor codes may store; often no powertrain code.
Root cause: Ford TSB 19-2287 describes the A/C inlet line breaking at the compressor because nearby oil-cooler coolant lines apply pressure to it.
Quick check
- Run the A/C at idle and during a drive; verify vent temperature drops quickly.
- Inspect the compressor inlet area for oil dye or fresh refrigerant staining.
- Ask whether the line has been replaced or rerouted.
Buyer note
A/C work is not a deal-breaker, but repeated recharge receipts suggest the actual line problem has not been fixed.
Owner note
Repair the line routing, not just the refrigerant level. A leaking system can damage the compressor if ignored.
Fault 8
AWD PTU/rear driveline noise and leakage
Affects
2013-2016 Escape AWD, especially 2.0L cars used for towing, snow, or short-trip driving.
Symptoms
Gear whine, burnt oil smell after highway driving, clunk on takeoff, vibration under load, or wetness around the PTU and rear drive unit.
Typical repair cost
$200-450 for fluid service where possible; $1,200-2,800 for PTU or rear drive-unit repair.
Codes / scan clues
AWD module codes vary; many mechanical leaks have no code.
Root cause: The compact PTU runs hot and holds little fluid. Long fluid intervals and seepage can leave bearings and gears running on degraded oil.
Quick check
- After the road test, look underneath for gear-oil smell or wet PTU casing.
- Do tight figure-eights in a quiet lot and listen for binding or clunks.
- Ask for driveline fluid service records even if the manual did not emphasize them.
Buyer note
AWD is worth having only when quiet and dry. A leaking PTU turns a cheap Escape into a workshop project.
Owner note
If you tow or drive winter roads, shorten driveline fluid intervals. Heat and old oil are the usual pairing behind expensive AWD failures.
Inspection pack
Printable checklist for the viewing
The free page helps you decide whether the car is worth seeing. The paid guide is the ordered, printable checklist you use at the car.
Documents
- VIN recall completion printout from Ford or NHTSA.
- Transmission fluid service invoice, especially above 80,000 miles.
- Coolant-system repair invoices for any 1.6L or 2.0L EcoBoost.
- Door latch and shifter-bushing campaign records.
Walk around
- Open and close every door repeatedly; confirm no door-ajar messages.
- Inspect coolant bottle level before the engine is started.
- Look for fuel or coolant staining under the right side of the engine bay.
- Check beneath AWD cars for PTU or rear drive-unit wetness.
In the car
- Cycle the shifter through every position and compare lever position with cluster indication.
- Run heat and A/C at idle; weak heat can signal low coolant.
- Check rear camera operation on 2015-2016 cars.
Test drive
- Start cold and include stop-go shifts, highway kickdown, and a parking-lot reverse maneuver.
- Watch coolant temperature stability during a long idle after the drive.
- Listen for AWD whine on lift-off and takeoff.
Scan tool
- Scan PCM/TCM for P0217, P1285, P1299, P0300-P0304, P0741, and P1744.
- Check stored body codes for door latch and shifter-range faults.
- Look for cleared monitors that may hide a recent misfire reset.
Bottom line
Buy: Buy the cleanest 2015-2016 2.5L FWD you can find, or a late 2.0L AWD with stable coolant, dry driveline, and smooth 6F35 shifts. The Escape is best as a simple commuter, not as a bargain turbo project.
Avoid: Avoid any 2013 1.6L with incomplete campaign proof, unexplained coolant loss, fuel smell, or history of overheating. Also pass on cars with Park mismatch, harsh transmission engagement, or coolant loss on the 2.0L.
Quick answers
Ford Escape buyer questions
The short versions of what this page answers in full.
What are the most common Ford Escape 2013-2016 problems?
The highest-impact documented faults are: 1.6L EcoBoost coolant loss, overheat, and fire-risk history; 2.0L EcoBoost coolant intrusion into cylinders; 6F35 automatic shudder, delayed shifts, and torque-converter faults. This guide covers 8 faults in total, each with symptoms, typical repair costs, and checks you can do at a viewing.
Which Ford Escape years are the best to buy?
2015-2016 stand out in this generation. Buy the cleanest 2015-2016 2.5L FWD you can find, or a late 2.0L AWD with stable coolant, dry driveline, and smooth 6F35 shifts. The Escape is best as a simple commuter, not as a bargain turbo project.
Which Ford Escape should I avoid?
Avoid any 2013 1.6L with incomplete campaign proof, unexplained coolant loss, fuel smell, or history of overheating. Also pass on cars with Park mismatch, harsh transmission engagement, or coolant loss on the 2.0L.
Is the Ford Escape 2013-2016 a reliable used buy?
BYBA scores it 7.4/10 (buy with checks). 1 walk-away risk, 7 minor faults documented for this generation, weighted by severity and repair cost. Biggest factor: 1.6l ecoboost coolant loss, overheat, and fire-risk history.
Get updates when this guide changes
Recalls get added, repair costs shift, and new fault patterns show up in the data. Leave an email and we'll tell you when the Ford Escape guide gets a meaningful revision. Nothing else, no selling your address.
Research basis
- api.nhtsa.gov: recallsByVehicle
- api.nhtsa.gov: recallsByVehicle
- api.nhtsa.gov: recallsByVehicle
- api.nhtsa.gov: recallsByVehicle
- static.nhtsa.gov: MC-10162071-0001.pdf
- tsbsearch.com: 20-2100
- carcomplaints.com: tsbs
- fordescape.org
- FordEscape.org owner thread on 2.0L coolant loss
- Ford TSB 19-2100 summary
- Ford TSB 19-2287 summary
- RepairPal Ford Escape drivetrain repair estimates
- CarComplaints Ford Escape drivetrain reports