Free used car buyer guide / L33 / fifth generation / 2013-2018

Nissan Altima common problems and best years

Updated 2026-06-12

BYBA Buy Score

6.6/10

Buy with checks

1 walk-away risk, 3 serious faults, 4 minor faults documented for this generation, weighted by severity and repair cost. Biggest factor: cvt judder, p17f0/p17f1 and belt/pulley wear. Score methodology.

The 2013-2018 Altima is cheap, roomy family transport, but the car only makes sense when the CVT has already proved itself or has been replaced by a documented Nissan/reman unit. The expensive traps are JF016E/JF017E CVT judder on 2.5 and 3.5 cars, repeat hood-latch corrosion across the L33 recall stack, QR25DE oil-control and timing-solenoid faults, VQ35DE CVT heat stress, rear lower-control-arm corrosion in salty states, and headlamp projector burn on early cars. The safest configuration is a late-2017 or 2018 2.5 S/SV with closed hood-latch recall, no P17F0/P17F1 history, fresh NS-3 fluid evidence, and boring service records. Current owners should treat transmission fluid, hood-latch cleaning, front subframe/rear suspension rust checks, and headlamp output as resale-critical maintenance rather than comfort items.

Faults covered

Highest risk

CVT judder, P17F0/P17F1

Best years

2017-2018

Best buys

2017-2018 2.5 S/SV with documented NS-3 CVT service and the 20V315 hood-latch repair completed.
2016-2018 3.5 SL only if the CVT scan is clean and the car has not towed, idled heavily, or overheated.
One-owner southern-market 2.5 cars with clear headlights and no rust at rear arms or front cradle seams.

Inspect hard

2013-2015 cars for repeated hood-latch work under 15V116, 16V029 and 20V315-related remedy history.
Any shudder at 15-45 mph: scan for P17F0, P17F1 and CVT deterioration counters before negotiating.
Cars with dim low beams: projector bowl condition matters more than new bulbs.

Avoid

Altimas with P17F0/P17F1 stored, delayed Drive engagement, or seller claims that CVT judder is normal.
Northern cars with crusted rear lower control arms, torn exhaust shields and subframe scale around mounts.
Hood not sitting flush or needing a slam after the recall; that points to poor latch alignment or corrosion.

Next checks

Before you contact the seller

Check the car's history first. Then bring the right tools if it still looks worth viewing.

Primary next step

Check history, title, and recall status

The faults above matter more if the car also has accident history, finance flags, missing service records, or open safety recalls.

carVerticalPaid history report - EU/UK fit VinAuditPaid history report - US fit NHTSA recallsFree recall lookup

Viewing kit

Bring the right tools

Four cheap tools catch most of the faults on this page at a Nissan Altima viewing.

Bluetooth OBD2 scannerRead fault-code history before trusting a clear dashboard.Paint thickness gaugeSpots resprays and hidden accident repair in seconds.Brake fluid testerHigh moisture means neglected maintenance everywhere else too.LED inspection lightEngine bay, sills, and underbody never lie under real light.

Printable workflow

Take the inspection pack

The PDF is the ordered checklist for the viewing: documents, walk-around, test drive, and scan.

Open PDF option

Some links here are partner links. If you buy through one, BYBA earns a commission. The price you pay does not change. How we make money.

Engines and trims

Which Nissan Altima should you buy?

On most used cars, the engine and trim choice changes the risk more than the mileage does. Narrow this down before you start viewing cars.

QR25DE 2.5 I4 with Jatco Xtronic CVT

2013-2018

BEST IF THE CVT IS CLEAN

This is the volume Altima. The engine itself is usually cheaper to live with than the transmission, but oil control solenoids, valve-cover leaks and neglected spark plugs can make a tired CVT feel worse. Buy the 2.5 for economy and parts availability, then let scan data decide whether the gearbox is acceptable.

VQ35DE 3.5 V6 with high-torque CVT

2013-2018

FUN BUT HARDER ON THE BELT

The V6 makes the L33 feel like a different sedan, but it also asks more of the CVT and cooling system. A 3.5 with fluid service, no judder and clean mounts can be a good cheap sleeper; a hard-driven 3.5 with delayed engagement is usually the most expensive Altima in the row.

QR25DE 2.5 late-build calibration

2017-2018

LOWEST-RISK L33 TARGET

Late L33 cars benefit from years of running changes and are young enough to show better interior, headlamp and suspension condition. They still use the same basic CVT family, so the advantage is not immunity; it is a better chance of finding a car maintained after Nissan's earlier CVT and hood-latch lessons.

Year notes

Year-by-year buyer advice

Use this to narrow the search before you spend time travelling to view a car.

2013

L33 launch year with 2.5 and 3.5 engines, new body, new interior, and the first large wave of CVT and hood-latch owner history.

Buyer: Only buy a 2013 when the price leaves room for suspension, headlamp and CVT work. A clean scan matters more than low advertised mileage.

Owner: Keep the hood latch clean and lubricated, and keep transmission fluid proof together with any Nissan CVT paperwork.

2014

Production matured, but the same hood-latch and CVT exposure remained. Early headlamp projector complaints are common in this period.

Buyer: Inspect low beams at night or in a dark garage. Bad projectors plus weak CVT behavior should push you to a newer car.

Owner: Do not chase dim low beams with premium bulbs until the projector bowl condition has been checked.

2015

Hood-latch recall coverage expanded around early cars, and CVT complaints continued as mileage rose.

Buyer: Ask for recall completion dates, not just a seller statement. Repeated latch visits suggest the hood area deserves close inspection.

Owner: If the hood release feels gritty or the hood sits proud, clean and repair it before corrosion locks in.

2016

Mid-cycle facelift with styling, cabin and feature updates. CVT hardware risk did not disappear.

Buyer: This is a fair value year if the CVT is quiet and the facelift body has not hidden crash repair.

Owner: Use the facelift's resale advantage to justify preventative CVT and brake-fluid service.

2017

Late-run cars have fewer launch issues and better availability of updated parts.

Buyer: A clean 2017 2.5 is one of the better L33 buys. Still scan the CVT because age alone does not save it.

Owner: Keep service intervals short enough that the next buyer can see this is not a neglected rental.

2018

Final L33 year before the L34 redesign. Nissan's 2020 hood-latch action still included 2018 vehicles.

Buyer: Strongest L33 target if the hood-latch recall is closed and the CVT has no judder codes.

Owner: Save the final-year service record; it separates your car from older high-risk Altimas.

Common problems

Faults to check before buying

What fails, what it looks like, what it costs, and the quick checks you can do at the viewing - ranked by how badly each one can hurt you.

Fault 1

CVT judder, P17F0/P17F1 and belt/pulley wear

WALK AWAY / $$$

Affects

2013-2018 Altima 2.5 and 3.5 with Xtronic CVT.

Symptoms

Shudder between 15-45 mph, flare, bump on takeoff, delayed Drive engagement, limp behavior or judder codes.

Typical repair cost

USD 900-1,800 for valve-body route; USD 4,000-7,000 for reman CVT.

Codes / scan clues

P17F0, P17F1, P0841, P0746 and related pressure-control codes.

Root cause: Pulley/belt surface wear and contaminated fluid disturb belt clamping force; Nissan bulletin NTB17-039H defines the inspection path.

Quick check

Scan all TCM data before clearing codes.
Drive gently from 10-45 mph on light throttle and feel for repeated bumps.
Check CVT fluid color, smell and service proof for NS-3.
Reject delayed engagement after a hot soak.

Buyer note

A cheap Altima with a failing CVT is rarely cheap after purchase. Treat judder codes as a gearbox-price deduction.

Owner note

If the first shudder appears, scan it quickly and avoid heat-heavy driving until diagnosed.

Fault 2

Secondary hood latch corrosion and poor engagement

LOW / $

Affects

2013-2018 Altima L33, especially cars exposed to salt and dirty latch cavities.

Symptoms

Hood warning, hood not fully seated, gritty release, latch sticking, visible corrosion or recall not completed.

Typical repair cost

Recall free; USD 150-450 for latch/alignment work outside campaign.

Codes / scan clues

No powertrain code; inspect campaign status and latch operation.

Root cause: Nissan recall material describes corrosion and latch binding at the secondary latch, aggravated by the front-end design and latch location.

Quick check

Run VIN recall status for 20V315 and earlier L33 hood-latch actions.
Open, release and close the hood several times.
Inspect latch spring return and corrosion.
Check hood alignment after closure.

Buyer note

A closed recall is normal. A sticky hood after remedy points to poor adjustment or neglected corrosion.

Owner note

Keep the latch clean and lubricated; a hood event is avoidable maintenance on this generation.

Fault 3

Dim halogen projector low beams

SERIOUS / $$

Affects

Mainly 2013-2015 Altima with halogen projector assemblies.

Symptoms

Poor night visibility, low beam looks yellow/dull even with new bulbs, failed inspection for light output.

Typical repair cost

USD 250-900 depending on aftermarket or OEM lamp assemblies.

Codes / scan clues

None.

Root cause: Projector bowl reflective coating degrades from heat; bulb replacement does not restore output when the bowl is damaged.

Quick check

Test low beams against a wall after dark.
Look for cloudy lenses and weak cutoff brightness.
Check whether both complete headlamp assemblies were replaced.
Avoid cars with aftermarket HID kits masking bad projectors.

Buyer note

Bad headlights are a real safety cost on early L33 cars and should come off the price.

Owner note

Replace assemblies or retrofit properly; brighter bulbs alone usually waste money.

Fault 4

QR25DE cam/crank sensor and valve-timing faults

LOW / $$

Affects

2013-2018 Altima 2.5, higher-mileage cars and neglected oil intervals.

Symptoms

Hard start, stall, P0011/P0014, rough idle, poor acceleration, oil sludge at filler.

Typical repair cost

USD 200-900 for sensors/solenoids; more if timing hardware is worn.

Codes / scan clues

P0011, P0014, P0340, P0335.

Root cause: Oil-controlled cam timing is sensitive to dirty oil, weak solenoids and sensor dropout.

Quick check

Cold-start the engine and watch idle quality.
Scan for stored timing and sensor codes.
Inspect oil-change intervals and oil level.
Listen for chain rattle at startup.

Buyer note

A timing-code 2.5 is not automatically bad, but it needs evidence that the CVT is not being blamed for engine hesitation.

Owner note

Short oil intervals protect both the timing system and the selling story.

Fault 5

Rear lower-control-arm and subframe corrosion

SERIOUS / $$

Affects

Salt-belt 2013-2018 Altima, especially high-mileage commuter cars.

Symptoms

Rear clunk, poor alignment, uneven rear tire wear, rust flakes around arms or cradle mounts.

Typical repair cost

USD 600-1,800 depending on arms, bolts and alignment labor.

Codes / scan clues

None; alignment readings expose the issue.

Root cause: Thin suspension arms and exposed fasteners corrode; seized bolts turn a simple arm job into a cutting job.

Quick check

Lift the rear and inspect arms at spring seats and bushings.
Check rear tire inner edges.
Ask whether alignment bolts move freely.
Walk away from perforated mounting points.

Buyer note

Rust repair can exceed the value gap between a northern bargain and a cleaner southern car.

Owner note

Rinse winter salt and undercoat only after removing loose scale; coating over rust hides the problem.

Fault 6

A/C compressor, blend-door and weak cooling complaints

LOW / $

Affects

2013-2018 Altima, most visible in hot climates.

Symptoms

Warm air at idle, clicking under dash, compressor cycling, refrigerant leak dye, one side warmer than the other.

Typical repair cost

USD 250-1,400 depending on actuator, condenser leak or compressor.

Codes / scan clues

HVAC module codes may be scan-tool specific.

Root cause: Age-related refrigerant leaks, compressor clutch wear and mode/blend actuator faults build up on high-mileage cars.

Quick check

Test A/C at idle and on the road.
Check both sides of the cabin for even temperature.
Listen for actuator clicking on key-on.
Inspect condenser for oily corners.

Buyer note

Warm A/C on an Altima is a repair line item, not a comfort quirk.

Owner note

Fix leaks before the compressor runs low on oil and turns a small job into a large one.

Fault 7

Door handles, locks and window-regulator wear

LOW / $

Affects

All L33 years, worse on ride-share or fleet cars.

Symptoms

Loose exterior handle, intermittent lock actuator, slow window, rattling door card.

Typical repair cost

USD 120-600 per door depending on parts.

Codes / scan clues

BCM/body codes possible; often none.

Root cause: Plastic handle carriers, worn regulators and lock actuators age faster on high-cycle vehicles.

Quick check

Open every door from inside and outside.
Run all windows through full travel.
Test keyless lock/unlock from each handle.
Look for mismatched paint around replaced handles.

Buyer note

Small door faults reveal how the car was used; multiple failures usually mean fleet life.

Owner note

Repair sticky handles early before a cable or latch breaks when the door is shut.

Fault 8

VQ35DE oil leaks, mounts and heat-loaded CVT behavior

SERIOUS / $$

Affects

2013-2018 Altima 3.5 SL.

Symptoms

Oil smell, upper timing-cover seepage, torque steer, vibration at idle, CVT flare after hard driving.

Typical repair cost

USD 300-1,500 for leaks/mounts; CVT replacement remains USD 4,000-7,000.

Codes / scan clues

Misfire, cam timing and CVT pressure codes vary.

Root cause: The V6 is durable but heat and torque expose mounts, seals and the high-torque CVT faster than on a calm 2.5.

Quick check

Inspect timing-cover and valve-cover areas for seepage.
Road-test after the transmission is fully hot.
Check engine mounts under load.
Scan TCM for deterioration and pressure-control codes.

Buyer note

The 3.5 is worth buying only when it feels tight and has better records than the average 2.5.

Owner note

Keep cooling and mounts healthy; vibration and heat are the V6 CVT's enemies.

Inspection pack

Printable checklist for the viewing

The free page helps you decide whether the car is worth seeing. The paid guide is the ordered, printable checklist you use at the car.

Documents

VIN recall printout showing L33 hood-latch actions closed.
CVT fluid receipts showing Nissan NS-3 or dealer service.
Any CVT replacement invoice with part number and mileage.
Headlamp assembly receipts for early 2013-2015 cars.

Walk around

Check hood latch release, secondary catch and hood alignment.
Inspect rear lower arms, front cradle seams and exhaust hangers for rust.
Look at headlamp output and lens/projector condition.
Check all door handles, lock buttons and windows.

In the car

Key on, confirm no airbag, ABS or master warning lamps stay on.
Test A/C temperature from both center vents at idle.
Check infotainment, backup camera and steering-wheel controls.
Listen for blend-door clicking.

Test drive

Cold Drive engagement should be quick and smooth.
Hold light throttle from 10-45 mph and feel for CVT judder.
Brake from motorway speed and listen for rear suspension clunks.
Hot restart, then test reverse and drive engagement again.

Scan tool

Read TCM for P17F0/P17F1 and pressure-control history.
Check engine timing and cam/crank sensor codes.
Read ABS/BCM codes before the seller clears warnings.
Save freeze-frame data if any CVT code is present.

Bottom line

Buy: Buy the newest 2.5 you can find with a quiet CVT, recall closure, clean underbody and real fluid records. A late 2017-2018 SV is the normal sensible target.

Avoid: Avoid any L33 with judder codes, hot delayed engagement, open hood-latch recall, or structural rust. Those cars are cheap because the next repair is larger than the discount.

Quick answers

Nissan Altima buyer questions

The short versions of what this page answers in full.

What are the most common Nissan Altima 2013-2018 problems?

The highest-impact documented faults are: CVT judder, P17F0/P17F1 and belt/pulley wear; Secondary hood latch corrosion and poor engagement; Dim halogen projector low beams. This guide covers 8 faults in total, each with symptoms, typical repair costs, and checks you can do at a viewing.

Which Nissan Altima years are the best to buy?

2017-2018 stand out in this generation. Buy the newest 2.5 you can find with a quiet CVT, recall closure, clean underbody and real fluid records. A late 2017-2018 SV is the normal sensible target.

Which Nissan Altima should I avoid?

Avoid any L33 with judder codes, hot delayed engagement, open hood-latch recall, or structural rust. Those cars are cheap because the next repair is larger than the discount.

Is the Nissan Altima 2013-2018 a reliable used buy?

BYBA scores it 6.6/10 (buy with checks). 1 walk-away risk, 3 serious faults, 4 minor faults documented for this generation, weighted by severity and repair cost. Biggest factor: cvt judder, p17f0/p17f1 and belt/pulley wear.

Get updates when this guide changes

Recalls get added, repair costs shift, and new fault patterns show up in the data. Leave an email and we'll tell you when the Nissan Altima guide gets a meaningful revision. Nothing else, no selling your address.

Research basis

Related buyer guides

Nissan Altima 2005-2008Buy Score 5.1/10 - 8 documented faults Nissan Altima 2009-2012Buy Score 5.6/10 - 8 documented faults Nissan Altima 2019-2025Buy Score 7.2/10 - 8 documented faults Nissan Frontier 2005-2021Buy Score 5.9/10 - 8 documented faults Nissan Kicks 2018-2024Buy Score 6.0/10 - 8 documented faults Nissan Leaf 2018-2025Buy Score 7.7/10 - 8 documented faults